We started our journey along the northern cliffs of the west coast and found many easy hikes that allowed us to reach stunning coastal vista’s overlooking ragged cliffs and rocky beaches. Paul marched me through lots of bush during those three days so all I remember at this point is how hot and sweaty I was at the end of each day. I do have some lovely pictures that I am sure I will look back on fondly, at some point. Where is the aloe vera gel and anti-itch cream when you need it and who can sleep after all that exertion? Thank goodness for Vitamin I, Ibuprofen that is!
Halfway down the west coast, we stopped at the Franz Joseph Glacier which is named after an Austrian-Hungarian emperor. An easy hiking trail revealed a better look at the glacier which is really just dirty packed snow that has turned into ice, not all that inspiring to look at but a fascinating slow melting multi-century phenomenon. We ate up some time hiking to beautiful Lake Matheson which provides a clear reflection of Mt. Cook and Mt. Tasman which are part of the Southern Alps. Unfortunately, by the time we made it to Fox Glacier, further south, it was already late afternoon, pouring rain and we still had a 2 hour drive ahead of us so we decided to give the hike a pass.
If you look at a map or pictures of the southernmost west coast of New Zealand’s South Island, you will see many long narrow inlets, otherwise known as fiords, flowing inland between vertical cliffs which are heavily forested at lower elevations leading to rugged cliffs above the tree line. This vast area of uninhabited and uninhabitable land is mostly unreachable and remains undiscovered by man. The primary way in for a rare few well equipped hikers or rock climbers is via helicopter. With over 200 days of rain a year, water creates the pristine emerald green forests and dense bush below which protects and fosters rare bird life. We ventured into Milford Sound on an overnight boat journey and saw jaw dropping views, a waterfall three times the size of Niagara Falls and were able to take a 90 minute hike at the end of the Milford Track. It rained overnight so our morning views back into the sound entrance were dozens of waterfalls cascading over the cliffs. Unbelievable! There is also an all day boat and bus tour combo that takes you into Doubtful Sound, another fiord, but we decided one Fiord trip was enough for this visit to the Southern Alps of New Zealand. Next we head inland to Queenstown for 12 days of rest and lots more hiking.
Interspersed with all these destinations were the spectacular views along the week long drive south; including majestic mountain views, several waterfalls, numerous roaring rivers along wide glacial beds, large deep mountain lakes and finally, acre upon acre of grazing cattle and sheep. Lest you think it’s all paradise, it’s mostly slow going as the majority of the traffic on the mountainous two lane curvy roads consists of slow moving tourists in unfamiliar rental cars driving on the left side of the road; which is not the norm in most countries the tourists are from: Europe and China. Also, the loud congested resort cities of Wanaka, Queenstown and Te Anau were quite a shock to the system after all the serene isolated beauty we drove through. Thankfully, with Paul at the wheel, we were in and out of these places rather quickly! 2019