Our final stop in New Zealand was in Christchurch, a city that is rebuilding after its 2011 earthquake during which 185 people were killed and tens of thousands of buildings and homes were lost. Although the disaster itself was difficult to comprehend, it was fascinating to learn about and see the beginnings of a strategically planned new inner city which is bringing a modern and contemporary tone and tenor to what was previously a very historical English city. Then it was goodbye New Zealand and Hello Australia.
Today, Sydney is a buzzing international metropolis of approximately 4.6M people which is small by international standards. Airbnb profiles 45 separate and distinct neighborhoods you can book as a vacation rental while visiting the city. First things first, we booked a walking tour that focused on the city’s darker history associated with the founding of a penal colony in the newly formed British settlement called New South Wales. The First Fleet of 11 vessels arrived in January 1788 with over 1000 passengers, 778 of whom were convicts. During the remainder of the last 1700’s, thousands more British convicts, many of whom were jailed for minor offenses such as stealing a loaf of bread, were shipped to this new outpost and sentenced to hard labor. The early years in the settlement were rough with the convicts charged with chiseling building sites from the hard rock of the coastal area settled. Thus, the oldest preserved area of Sydney Cove is today called “The Rocks.” In the early days, the area had a reputation as a slum where native aboriginals, visiting sailors, prostitutes and gangs lived, not always so harmoniously. During the first several decades of the colony’s development massive amounts of rum were imported, bartered with due to a shortage of coins and notes and also said to have financed much of the settlement’s early development. It all sounded like a recipe for disaster to me!
By the early 20th century much of the area was in decay and over the years the demolitionists eventually met up with the preservationists and the land was turned over the Sydney Cove Redevelopment Authority in 1968. Much of the area has since been re-gentrified and there are close to 100 heritage listed sites in the area. Today, as one strolls through the sandstone steps and cobblestone lanes you will see hip bars and restaurants, gourmet food trucks, maker markets and diverse artisan shops behind which lie preserved alleyways and the stone footprints of several small original dwellings from the early settlement.
It is said that the Sydney Opera House changed the city’s worldwide image from one of dubious beginnings to that of a modern day mecca of design and inspiration. Although this seems an oversimplification of the city’s urban development over the past several centuries, the building holds significant prominence in the city’s harbor and is loved by locals and visitors alike. Suffice it to say, Danish designer Jorn Utzon’s creation has become one of the most famous landmarks in the world. I took a tour of the building and learned all kinds of facts and figures about its development and operation. To make a long story short, it had a prolonged and troubled gestation period; construction started in 1959, was finally completed in 1973 and ended up costing over 100M which was over ten times the original estimate. Today, the building is a multi-venue performing arts center and holds 100’s of performances each year. Paul and I decided to take in a concert and saw Angelique Kidjo, known as”Africa’s premier diva.” She is a great singer, songwriter and performer and got the audience engaged in a standing dance party. After our time in South Australia, we will spend several more days in Sydney before we fly home so stay tuned for more interesting tales about this stunning international city. 2019